Inverted Spear of Heaven, Hand-Forged Unofficial Replica

No. This is an unofficial, independently forged tribute piece. Everest Forge is not affiliated with, authorised by, sponsored by or endorsed by the creators, publishers or rights holders of Jujutsu Kaisen, and no claim of any such connection is made or implied. All series names, character names and weapon names belong to their respective owners and are used here only to describe what the design takes its inspiration from.

What you are buying is a sword we forged: a broad single-edged blade with stepped shoulders and a squared angled tip, a long open slot cut through the flat with a forward prong above it, a plain steel cross-bar, a 12 inch leather-cord grip and a brass bell pommel. It is made in Kathmandu from 5160 spring steel by the same smiths who make everything else here, and it is described on this page as the object it is rather than as merchandise.

Visually, they are the whole design — a blade that forks is memorable in a way a plain one is not, and this is the part every photograph is of. Functionally, we are not going to invent a purpose for them. A slot of this size does not trap a blade, does not make the sword cut better, and does not do anything a solid blade would not do more reliably.

What the slot genuinely does is remove a great deal of steel from the middle of the blade, which takes weight out of the front end. On a sword this heavy that is not nothing. But it is a side effect of the shape rather than the reason for it, and the reason for it is that it looks extraordinary.

It changes where the blade is strong, and the honest answer has two halves. The main blade below the slot is a continuous bar of steel from the guard to the tip, and it is broad. That part is fine, and it is what you would actually cut with.

The prong above the slot is the part to understand. It is a cantilever — a narrow bar of steel anchored at one end and unsupported at the other — and a cantilever concentrates all its load at the root. Hit something hard with the prong, or lever sideways against it, and the place that yields is where it meets the body of the blade, not the tip. It is thick enough for handling and display and it is not a prying tool. If you want it stronger, we can thicken the root or shorten the slot, which changes the look a little and the durability a lot. That is the honest trade and it is yours to make.

1,690 grams, which over 30 inches of total length works out at about 56 grams per inch — the heaviest per inch of anything in our sword range. A 30 inch sword of conventional proportions would run somewhere near 1,100 to 1,300 grams, so this is roughly 30 to 55 per cent above that.

Two things carry it. The blade is broad and cut from thick stock, and the hilt is enormous by proportion at 12 inches with a brass pommel on the end. What that produces is a sword that is genuinely two-handed and that balances much closer to the hand than the silhouette suggests. It is not a quick sword, and it is not trying to be.

Because the design wants it that way, and because it is what makes the weight manageable. Twelve inches is enough for both hands with room between them, and hands spread apart on a long grip give you far more control over a heavy blade than hands together on a short one — the further apart they are, the more leverage you have over where the tip goes.

It also moves mass behind the guard, which pulls the balance back toward you. On a sword that weighs 1,690 grams that matters more than almost anything else in the build. A shorter grip would look more conventional and handle considerably worse.

The standard build carries an 18 inch blade and a 12 inch hilt, 30 inches overall. That is a default rather than a fixed specification — every blade we make is forged after the order, so the dimensions are yours to set.

The proportion is the interesting variable here rather than the total length. Keeping the 12 inch grip and lengthening the blade makes a much more aggressive object; shortening the grip toward a conventional proportion makes it look more like a normal sword and handle worse for the weight. Tell us what you are after and we will tell you what we would build.

Leather cord wrapped in close rings over the grip, a plain flat steel cross-bar at the blade, a steel collar, and a brass bell pommel. The wrap gives a positive grip along the whole 12 inches, which matters when your hands move along it.

Grip material and colour are both selectable at no extra cost — rosewood, horn, micarta and plain leather are all available, and we will match the sheath to whatever you choose. The furniture can be left bright, given a satin finish, or blackened.

Yes, the main edge sharpened along its full length and ready to use, unless you tell us otherwise. The squared tip is finished but is not a point and will not thrust.

The inside faces of the slot and the prong are left unsharpened on the standard build. They do no cutting work, they are extremely awkward to sharpen properly, and a sharpened edge inside an enclosed slot is a snagging hazard. Unsharpened builds are free for display or an awkward import, and so is a stage combat build — rebated edge, rounded tip.

5160 high-carbon spring steel, which we use across the whole range. The blade is forged to shape, quenched, and then tempered back by hand as a separate operation afterwards. Those two steps are distinct and the second matters more here than on almost anything we make.

The reason is the slot. Cutting a long opening through a blade leaves internal corners at each end of it, and corners concentrate stress. A properly tempered blade absorbs that; an untempered one finds the corner and cracks from it. 5160 is not stainless, rusts if left damp, and takes and keeps an edge far better than any stainless we could sensibly forge. We do not make pattern-welded or laminated blades at all, by choice.

Closer to the hand than the silhouette suggests, for two reasons that work together: the slot removes steel from the middle of the blade, and the 12 inch hilt with a brass pommel puts a lot of mass behind the guard.

We do not publish a single point-of-balance figure, because hand-forged work varies and a number two inches out is worse than none. Ask before dispatch and we will measure the actual sword we are sending you, from the cross-bar, and send you the figure. Our sword guide explains what the measurement means and why it is worth asking any seller for.

A brown leather sheath cut to this outline, stitched in contrasting thread, with riveted retaining straps and a long shoulder strap. It is built to the blade rather than to a pattern, which on a shape like this is not optional — nothing generic will take a forked blade with stepped shoulders.

Colour, stitching and carry arrangement are yours to specify. A wall mount cut to this silhouette is a custom forge item and we will quote it, and on a sword with an outline this distinctive a fitted mount is worth considering.

Nothing is held in stock. Every blade is forged after the order arrives, which is why the dimensions, the proportions, the grip material and the furniture finish are all free to change — there is no standard version already made. Standard builds dispatch in 2 to 3 business days; genuinely custom work runs 4 to 6 weeks depending on the queue.

It ships sheathed and braced in a rigid carton with the strap packed separately so nothing bears on the blade, by DHL or FedEx with tracking, typically 7 to 14 business days from Kathmandu. Import duty and local taxes are the buyer's responsibility and vary by country.