Hand-Forged Hunting Knife, Curved Fullered Blade

It belongs to the family of large single-edged outdoor knives that runs from the bowie through the hunting sword to the machete — blades long enough to chop with, but shaped and handled like a knife rather than a sword. The sweeping curve puts the widest part of the edge out where a chopping stroke lands, and the clipped point gives you a finer tip than a plain sweep would. It is a modern working knife rather than a reproduction of a historical pattern.

No, and we would rather tell you now than have you find out. A knife for real hunting work — field dressing, skinning, breaking down a carcass — wants a blade of four to six inches. That length gives you control, lets you work close to the hand, and fits inside a body cavity without the tip getting in the way. Past about eight inches a knife becomes clumsy for that job, and at fifteen it is simply the wrong tool. What this blade is genuinely good at is camp work: clearing brush, limbing, splitting kindling, and anything where reach and weight behind the edge help. Plenty of people also buy it as a display piece, which is a perfectly good reason. If you want a knife to take after game, order a five to seven inch blade through Custom Forge and it will serve you far better and cost you less.

Look at the last few inches of the spine and you will see it drops away toward the tip instead of running straight to it — that removed section is the clip, and the shape is one of the most useful things you can do to a large blade. Cutting away the spine near the point does three things. It moves the tip down toward the centreline of the blade, so a thrust lines up with your wrist instead of angling upward. It makes the point narrower and more acute, which means it will pierce and do detail work that a broad sweeping tip cannot. And it takes weight off the very end, which slightly quickens the blade in the hand. The trade-off is strength: a clipped point has less steel behind it, so it is the part most likely to break if you pry with it. Do not use the tip as a lever. The clip on this knife is left unsharpened; a sharpened false edge can be ground on request.

It is a finish choice rather than a functional one. The fuller is ground into the blade along the spine, and instead of polishing the inside of the groove to match the satin flats we leave it dark, so the line reads clearly against the bright steel and gives the blade some visual depth. The groove itself is there to take weight out of the thickest part of the blade without losing stiffness. If you would rather have it bright, or no fuller at all, both are options — a blade with no fuller is very slightly stronger and slightly heavier, and on a knife this size you would struggle to feel the difference.

Yes. It is hand-forged from 5160 high-carbon spring steel, oil-tempered, sharpened, and built on a full tang with the rosewood scales riveted straight through it. It will chop green wood, clear brush and take the abuse a working knife is meant to take. Do not use it on stone, metal, nails hidden in old timber, or seasoned hardwood knots, and check the rivets and edge after heavy use.

The blade is forged from 5160 high-carbon spring steel, the same alloy used in heavy-duty truck leaf springs, prized for toughness and edge retention. It is oil-tempered for a hard cutting edge backed by a flexible, shock-absorbent spine. On a chopping blade that toughness matters more than extreme hardness — a very hard edge chips when it meets a knot, where a tougher one rolls slightly and can be steeled back.

Yes. The tang runs the full length and width of the handle and the rosewood scales are riveted straight through it, so the handle is mechanically fastened to the steel rather than held by adhesive. There is no narrow tang hidden inside a hollow grip. On a chopper this is not a luxury — every impact sends shock back into the handle, and a glued or partial tang is the part that fails first.

The bolster is the block of steel between the blade and the handle scales, and it does more than finish the joint. It stops your hand sliding forward onto the edge under a hard stroke, it adds weight at the balance point so the blade does not feel entirely nose-heavy, and it seals the front of the handle where moisture and debris would otherwise work their way in between the scales and the tang. On this knife it is polished steel, matched by a butt cap at the other end.

Yes, sharpened to a working edge along the full belly, finished by hand. If you need it blunt for display, or to satisfy import rules where you live, choose the display-blunt option or tell us in your order notes. There is no extra charge either way.

A brown leather belt sheath, cut and stitched by hand to fit the blade you order — which is why a custom blade size always means a custom sheath and adds to the lead time. Store the knife outside it for the long term rather than in it: leather is tanned with acids and holds damp, and neither does carbon steel any favours over months in a cupboard.

Yes, and it is worth thinking about properly rather than defaulting to the biggest option. Tell us the job you want the knife to do and we will tell you honestly what size and shape suits it — a five to seven inch blade for field work, something in the middle for general camp use, or this length if chopping and presence are what you are after. Blade profile, fuller, finish and handle material are all adjustable too.

Yes. We ship worldwide from Nepal by DHL or FedEx in 7 to 14 business days with tracking. In-stock specs dispatch within 2 to 3 business days; fully custom builds take roughly 4 to 6 weeks to forge first. Import and blade laws vary by country, so please check your local rules before ordering.